12/10/2023 0 Comments Dr who pinball for saleThis suggested there was something wrong with the power going to the motor from the power driver board. I had verified that the motor was working with an external power source. So, time to get the multimeter out and do some probing. Hah! No such luck! After cleaning and rebuilding, he mini playfield would not move during gameplay or even in test mode. Unfortunately, I forgot to snap an 'after' picture.Īt this point, I was happy to finally get the mini playfield installed into the game and working. Fiona did an excellent colour match on this one using Createx opaque yellow with a dab of opaque red for darkness. The repair went pretty much the same way, the only difference being that I needed to paint a small section yellow to match what was on the playfield. I followed the same procedure to fix the hole created by the star post as I did to repair the centre post hole. There is even a page in the manual that mentions this problem specifically and instructs you on how to adjust the wireform to fix it! But all you need to do is adjust the wireform ramp attached to the slingshot and move it left or right! Installing a post is hamfisted and totally unnecessary. This is something that needs fixing, for sure. This would result in it draining down the right outlane about 20% of the time. The ball would often bounce off the slingshot rubber when it was kicked out of the TARDIS upkicker. Unlike the centre post, I actually understood why this one was installed. It was installed above and between the right inlane and outlane. This was an extra star post that wasn't meant to be there. This is what I started with after removing the centre post between the flippers. This is the technique I used to fix the holes on Doctor Who. Repairing simple holes and gouges in the playfield comes down to filling the hole, sanding it down, then painting over the repair. Reading articles online has made me think that people overthink these kinds of simple repairs far too much. In particular, Vid's guide on Pinside is very thorough. There are plenty of guides on playfield repair online that are well worth a read. The post had probably been installed in this hole first, before being moved to the next hole, leaving two holes for me to patch up. Installing a post is unnecessary.Įven more frustrating was the fact that there was another hole in the playfield near the centre post hole. Even if they wanted to make the game easier, there are plenty of software adjustments that can be made to achieve this. Why would an operator want to extend playtime? It would reduce their income. Second, the post makes it possible to save the ball more easily. Why the hell would you install a centre post on a game that wasn't designed for one? For one, it's extra effort to install the post for the operator. I have read that the heat removal method is just as effective, but I would personally prefer to spray a short burst of freezing gas onto the playfield instead of expose it to prolonged periods of intense heat. There are heaps of resources online that explain how to carry out Mylar removal using the freeze method. As we were only cutting a small section of Mylar out, we had to very carefully cut the Mylar out with a sharp blade, being careful not to cut deeply enough to damage the playfield. This process worked really well and we managed to complete the removal without losing any artwork. We then used the freeze method to unstick the rest of the Mylar. As the Mylar was already lifting, it was easy to get a plastic razor blade under it and pry it up to remove. The only way to deal with this was to remove the dirty Mylar altogether there is no way to clean the Mylar otherwise.įiona and I decided to cut out the dirty section of Mylar, which was the section covering the "O" and "Hang On" inserts. As a result of the Hang On insert lifting, some dirt and debris had made its way under the Mylar.
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